DIY Swimming Pools UK - Inground Swimming Pool Kits

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relevant facts relating to the construction and maintenance of a swimming pool. Select an area of interest below by using the links provided

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	Polypool provides a fully comprehensive technical support service. For more information click below.

Maintaining a pool

Whether you have an indoor or outdoor, private or public swimming pool, it is a source of fun, relaxation and exercise, therefore it needs to be kept in perfect condition all year round. This means not only the maintenance of the mechanical equipment, but also ensuring the water is kept in sparkling condition.

Keeping a pool sparkling clean and pollution free isn’t difficult or time consuming. The key is regular testing of the water to check the three main factors : pH, Chlorine and the overall water balance.

If however you do have any problems with your water or pool care, we are always more than happy to help you and offer any advise we can to ensure that you do enjoy your swimming pool. You can either send us your problem online or call us during normal office hours on
0870 2408360

Please click on the links below to be taken to the relevant section

Frequently Asked Questions
Here are a few hits & tips to get you started with your pool!
Chemical Storage
Weight and volume measurement of water
Estimating pool capacity
Daily Pool Operation
Weekly Pool Maintenance
Filtration
Vacuuming
Surface Skimming

Testing & Chemicals
Calcium Hypochlorite (Sanitier)
Stabilised Chlorine (Sanitier)
Bromination (Sanitier)
pH Correction
Granular flocculant (aluminium sulphate) (Flocculants)
Sparkle Water Clarifier Liquid Flocculant (Aliphatic Polyamine)(Flocculants)
Alkalinity Builder (Sodium Bicarbonate) (Balanced Water)
Calcium Builder (Calcium Chloride) (Balanced Water)

Troubleshooting
Most swimming pool water problems are the result of one or more of the following: No free available chlorine. Poor water circulation. Not using test kits, or not reading them correctly. Lack of proper pool maintenance, which includes periodic super-chlorination and fresh water replacement. Check the symptoms listed below, click on the appropriate problem, then apply the suggested remedy.
Cloudy Water
Algae or green murky water
Eye burns
Stains on pool surface
Clogged filter
Foaming water
Scale deposits
Coloured water - newly filled pool
Coloured water - existing pool water
Total dissolved solids

Summerising
The following are generalised instructions on how to properly open an inground. Please note however, that all pools are somewhat different and your pool may need specific care not mentioned here. If you have any doubts about how to properly open your particular pool before use, then contact us.
Pool Opening Procedure - Overview
Opening the Pool - General
Opening the Pool - Detailed
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Winterising
Pool closing time is usually a sad time of year as the weather is getting cold, the leaves are changing colour and the warm memories of summertime fun are fading away. This is not usually the time of year that people like to think about their swimming pools, but this is really the most important time of the year to pay attention to the pool to avoid unnecessary problems and costly repairs come Springtime.The following are generalised instructions on how to properly close an inground and an above ground pool. Please note however, that all pools are somewhat different and your pool may need specific care not mentioned here. If you have any doubts about how to properly close your particular pool then either give us a call or email your query to us. Remember it's better to be safe than sorry & prevention is better than cure!
Frequently asked questions about pool closings
How to close an Inground Pool
How to close an Above Ground Pool

Pool Safety
Image Keeping your pool safe for those who swim in it should always be a prime concern. Whether it's keeping chemicals out of harms way or supervising swimming sessions, here are some essential do's and dont's :
Click here for a list of do's and dont's

Summary of pool water conditions that you should aim for

Residential Commercial

Free Chlorine 1 - 3mg/l 2 - 4mg/l

pH 7.2 - 7.8 7.2 - 7.8

Total Alkalinity 120 - 150mg/l 120 - 150mg/l

Calcium Hardeness 100 - 150mg/l 100 - 150mg/l (200 tiled pools)

We have answers to all your questions based on vast experience of indoor and outdoor swimming pool construction. Please contact us for advice and a quote based on your requirements.

Or get started with your pool project & click here to start our fast track system

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	Here are a few hits & tips to get you started with your pool! • The best time to test the water is in the evening, before adding chemicals and again first thing in the morning to ensure it is suitable for the days bathing. • If the swimming pool is used heavily then water tests should be carried out at least three times a day. • The ideal pH level for pool water is pH 7.5 • Strong sunlight can reduce the amount of Chlorine in a swimming pool, therefore, monitor levels closely during hot sunny spells. • Pool water should generally appear clear blue in colour, any variations, such as cloudiness, may be caused by bacterial or algae growth, suspended matter or other contamination which must not be ignored. • Check water at the return flow of water to the pool and add any chemicals at this point as well to ensure effective mixing with filtered water. • Regularly clean the pool surfaces including the waterline to ensure that build up of sun-oils, body fats, algae, airborne pollution and other dirt is not left to build up. • Pool surround paving slabs should be cleaned with a strong Chlorine solution, brushed away from the pool. Return to menu

	Chemical Storage • Minimise the different types of chemicals you store. • Don't buy more than you will consume in a season. Some of the more hazardous pool chemicals don't keep well. • Keep wet hands and dirty scoops out of your chemicals. Contamination is often a cause of problems. • Don't store pool chemicals where other materials can fall into them. • NEVER mix swimming pool chemicals of any type! When adding chemicals to your pool allow one to disappear before adding another. • All forms of acids react dangerously with all forms of chlorine or bromine. NEVER mix Chlorine compounds that look or smell alike may not be the same: you have to know the actual chemical. Allowing even small amounts of different chlorine sanitisers to touch each other can be REALLY dangerous. In particular, trichlor and calcium hypochlorite can react dangerously on contact with each other. Once they're dissolved in the pool, though, they get along fine. • Use gloves and glasses. • Make sure chemicals are locked away from small children. • Always label containers Return to menu

	Weight and volume measurement of water All are approximate figures and are for guidance only • One gallon weighs 10 pounds. • One cubic foot weighs 62.7 pounds. • One cubic foot of water contains 6.25 gallons. • One cubic meter of water contains 220 gallons. Return to menu

	Estimating pool capacity • Rectangular pool: length x width x average depth x 6.25 = gallons of water • Round pool: 3.143 x radius x radius x average depth x 6.25 = gallons of water • Oval pool: length x width x average depth x 6.25 = gallons of water The above calculations are for measurements in feet, if metric multiply the end result by 220 to get the correct gallons of water. Return to menu

	Daily Pool Operation • Test pH & Free Chlorine levels using a test kit. Ensure pH is within the 7.2 - 7.6 range. • The pool filter should run at least 8 to 10 hours per day (24 hours per day is best). Set your pool timer or remember to run the pool manually if you don't have a timer. If you are not running your pool 24 hours per day, it is best to have it running during the daylight hours (instead of night). • Make sure your skimmer baskets are empty and clear of leaves or other debris. Chlorine must be added to the pool daily in one of the following ways… • Best method is to place 3" slow dissolving chlorine tablets in the skimmers once per week (4-6 tablets are normal for 16x32 pool). • Next best method is to use an automatic chlorinator. Make sure the unit is full and that the dial is set to a level that gives you a good daily chlorine reading depending on how long you run your system. • Next best method is to use a chlorine floater with slow dissolving tabs inside it. Keep floater in pool at all times and refill it weekly. • Next best method is to manually add either granular chlorine or quick tabs to pool skimmer every day. Return to menu

	Weekly Pool Maintenance • Completely backwash filter • Check return flow of water to the pool. Add chemicals at this point to ensure effective mixing with filtered water return. • Test & adjust water for Chlorine, pH and Alkalinity. • Add Chlorine to pool (see "Daily Pool Operation" section). • Vacuum pool floor and walls. • Shock pool and add algaecide. • It's a good idea to do this on a Friday evening ready for heavy weekend usage. • Empty skimmer baskets. • Check pool ladder and board/slide fittings are secure. Return to menu

	Filtration There are several types of filters available for swimming pool water. Sand and gravel, diatomaceous earth, anthracite, and cartridge types are the filter mediums most commonly employed. Regardless of the medium used, the basic principles are the same. This consists of passing water through tiny passageways. Particles larger than these passages are trapped and thereby separated from the main body of the water. This process continues until all of these passageways are blocked. The filter must then be cleaned and the cycle repeated. Return to menu

	Vacuuming A filter is designed to remove sediment and suspended matter from the main body of water, however, some dirt will inevitably settle to the bottom of the pool during periods when the filter is not in operation. The only way for this sediment to be removed is through vacuuming. The swimming pool vacuum operates in a similar manner to the common household unit except it draws water through the vacuum head instead of air. There are two ways in which this may be accomplished. One method employs a jet of water supplied by a garden hose to power the suction which draws the dirt into the head to be trapped in a cloth bag. The other method uses the suction power supplied by the filter which draws the sediment and dirt from the pool floor for removal through the filter. When there is a considerable amount of sediment to be removed the filter valves should be adjusted so that the vacuumed water will bypass the filter and run to waste. It is recommended that the pool be vacuumed about once weekly, the exact schedule to be determined from the pool owners experience. Return to menu

	Surface Skimming Hair, lint, leaves and insects which enter the pool and remain floating on the surface can be easily removed with surface skimmers. There are two types of surface skimmers-hand and automatic. The hand skimmer is simply a plastic screen or net attached to a long pole and should be used to remove the larger floating objects such as leaves and grass. The automatic surface skimmer is a device which is attached to the filtering system. During the filtering process, part of the surface water is drawn through the skimmer and into the filter, carrying with it dust, small insects, and other fine debris before these can settle to the pool floor. The pool should be skimmed frequently since most dirt enters the water through the surface. Return to menu

	Calcium Hypochlorite (Sanitier) An off white granule chlorine granules or tablet. • It contains 65% available chlorine and when dissolved in water it leaves some solids. • It is slightly alkaline so it will increase the pH. • It should be dosed into a skimmer or the solution can be added through a small dosing pump. • 75 grams adds approximately 1 part per million of free chlorine to 10,000 gallons of water. • The level of free chlorine should be maintained at between 1 and 2 parts per million. This is measured with a chlorine (DPD 1) test kit. • When used in an outdoor pool the sunlight breaks up some of the free chlorine. So in sunny weather it may be difficult to maintain the correct level of chlorine. • It is also used as a shock treatment to rid the pool of algae or to burn off unpleasant chlorine by products (chloramines). (Sanitiers: This group of chemicals is the most important in treating your pool. Their job is to quickly kill any bacteria or viruses that get into the water so that they cannot multiply and cause infections in swimmers. Most of them contain chlorine.) Return to menu

	Stabilised Chlorine (Sanitier) • In order to stop chlorine being broken down by sunlight it is combined with a stabiliser - cyanuric acid. • Cyanuric acid can be added separately or more commonly it is supplied as stabilised chlorine granules or tablets. • The problem with all stabilised chlorine products is that as well as stopping the sunlight breaking down the chlorine they also make the chlorine less effective. Therefore it is important not to get too much cyanuric acid in the water. • The cyanuric acid level can be tested with a test kit. The only way of getting rid of cyanuric acid is by dumping water. • There are two forms of stabilised chlorine • Stabilised Chlorine Tablets (sodium dichloroisocyanurate) - This is a white tablet which adds chlorine to the water just like any other sanitiser but it also adds stabiliser at the same time. It has a pH close to neutral (7) so that it will have little effect on the pH of the pool water. It is added by dissolving the required quantity in warm water. 60 grams will add 1 part per million chlorine to each 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons) of pool water. • Stabilised Chlorine (Trichloro isocyanuric acid) - This is normally supplied as a 200 gram tablet which adds chlorine to the water just like any other sanitiser but it also adds stabiliser at the same time. It is acidic so it will reduce the pH of the pool water making it necessary to add an alkalinity builder to the water to prevent corrosion or the attack of concrete or tile grout. The tablets are slow dissolving. They are usually put in the skimmer to dissolve over several days. One 200 gram tablet will add approximately 4 parts per million of chlorine to each 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons) of pool water, this might seem a lot in a small pool but remember, it is dissolving slowly • Hint: Add Chlorine in the evening instead of the morning, as this can halve your chemical costs. Why? At night, chlorine is used up doing useful work in your pool, like oxidizing all the sweat and sun-tan lotion from your pool party. During the day, it is mostly wasted -- lost to the UV in the sunlight. Depending on stabilizer levels, and sunshine, you can lose half the chlorine in the pool in as little as 30 minutes! Even when your swimming pool is stabilized, you can lose half the sanitizer in 4 hours. But, at night, all of the chlorine used is doing something useful to your pool water! (Sanitiers: This group of chemicals is the most important in treating your pool. Their job is to quickly kill any bacteria or viruses that get into the water so that they cannot multiply and cause infections in swimmers. Most of them contain chlorine.) Return to menu

	Bromination (Sanitier) • Some pools are fitted with circulation feeders called brominators. • These use a sanitiser called bromo-chloro-dimethyl hydantoin (BCDMH). • BCDMH is supplied in the form of white tablets which are loaded into the brominator and the pool water is pumped over them. • BCDMH should not be added directly to the pool or through the skimmers. • The level of active bromine in the pool is tested with a bromine test kit and the brominator is adjusted to give a bromine level between 2 and 4 ppm. The pH level can be allowed to rise to between 7.8 and 8.0 so very little pH minus is required. • As the chlorine and bromine in BCDMH are used up the amount of the DMH part of the chemical in the pool increases. Excessive DMH affects the disinfection efficiency so the level must not be allowed to get too high. The concentration should not exceed 200 ppm. • Apart from the higher free bromine and pH levels all the other pool parameters such as alkalinity and calcium hardness are the same as in chlorinated pools. (Sanitiers: This group of chemicals is the most important in treating your pool. Their job is to quickly kill any bacteria or viruses that get into the water so that they cannot multiply and cause infections in swimmers. Most of them contain chlorine.) Return to menu

	pH Correction All chlorine based sanitisers become less effective at killing bacteria and viruses as the pH rises (becomes more alkaline). • To keep the chlorine working it is recommended that the pH is kept below 7.6. • However if pool water becomes less alkaline it also gets more corrosive and less comfortable to swim in. • Also, if pH drops below 7.2 it will start to attack some liners. • Therefore, the pH is recommended to be above 7.2. So the normal range that a pool water should be kept at is 7.2 to 7.6 (ideally 7.4 to 7.6). • On most pools the pH will tend to rise so pH minus (sodium bisulphate) is added. The exception to this is if trichloro isocyanuric acid is being used in which case the pH will go down and an alkalinity builder will be required. • The pH is tested using pH test kit which uses phenol red tablets in a comparitor tube • It is difficult to predict how much acid will be required to reduce the pH to a precise level as it depends on what else the water contains. • For instance a soft water will require less acid to adjust the pH than a hard water. • We suggest adding 500 grams for every 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons) and then re testing after 12 hours and redosing if necessary. You will soon become familiar with the amount your particular water requires. • To dose dissolve in warm water in a clean plastic container and distribute evenly around the pool with the filter operating. Return to menu

	Granular flocculant (aluminium sulphate) (Flocculants) • Forms a gel on top of your pool filter enabling the filter to remove finer particles. It is very simple to use. • Backwash the filter. Place 60 grams of aluminium sulphate for each 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons) of pool water in the skimmer or strainer basket. • The pool filter should be run continuously for at least 48 hours and only back washed during this time if the pressure rises to the level recommended for backwashing. • In the event of backwashing repeat dose. • Aluminium sulphate should not be used with diatomaceous earth or cartridge filters. (Flocculants : Substances which improve the efficiency of your sand filter. They release a coagulant to help filter sand remove fine particles which could pass through the filter and make the water cloudy. The most commonly used flocculant is aluminium sulphate.) Return to menu

	Sparkle Water Clarifier Liquid Flocculant (Aliphatic Polyamine) (Flocculants) • Flocculates the fine particles in the water making them stick together in clumps so that they can be filtered out. • If your pool goes cloudy it can be added directly to the pool to clear overnight. • It can be used in conjunction with, or instead of, aluminium sulphate. • To clear cloudy water add 250 mls per 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons). • Dilute in a plastic bucket and distribute evenly around the pool with the filter operating. • For routine use add 60 mls per 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons) weekly. (Flocculants : Substances which improve the efficiency of your sand filter. They release a coagulant to help filter sand remove fine particles which could pass through the filter and make the water cloudy. The most commonly used flocculant is aluminium sulphate.) Return to menu

	Alkalinity Builder (Sodium Bicarbonate) (Balanced Water) • In areas where the tap water is soft, or if stabilised chlorine tablets (trichloro isocyanuric acid) are used it will be necessary to add alkalinity to the water. • Adding alkalinity builder will slowly increase the pH of the pool water. • Water with little alkalinity is corrosive to pool pumps, heat exchangers, concrete and tile grout. • The alkalinity should be kept above 120 ppm. • In hard water areas it will already be over this level. • Alkalinity builder is added direct to the pool. • It will sink to the bottom but will quickly dissolve if brushed. • 1 kilogram of alkalinity builder will increase alkalinity by approximately 12 ppm in 45 cubic metres (10,000 gallons) of pool water. (Balanced Water : Water which is not corrosive and will not scale up your pool heater is said to be balanced.) Return to menu

	Calcium Builder (Calcium Chloride) (Balanced Water) • If you have a tiled pool and are in a soft water area (an area where you kettle doesn’t fur up) it is important that you keep sufficient calcium in the pool water. • Hard water will naturally contain enough calcium.. If there is insufficient calcium in the water of a tiled pool the water will tend to dissolve the calcium in the grout making it soft. Eventually the grout will disappear leaving sharp edges which can cut the feet of bathers. • In a tiled pool the calcium hardness should be kept above 200 parts per million. • The calcium hardness can be increased by adding calcium chloride or by using calcium hypochlorite as your sanitiser. • Spent calcium hypochlorite ends up as calcium chloride. (Balanced Water : Water which is not corrosive and will not scale up your pool heater is said to be balanced.) Return to menu

	Cloudy water. (Water appears murky or turbid due to suspended matter) Causes: • Algae • Too high a hardness level • Too frequent backwashing • Inefficient filter • Plugged or channelled filter • Precipitating calcium compounds • Improper pH • Improper total alkalinity • Too high a total dissolved solids content Remedies: • Inspect filtration system • Adjust you pH and total alkalinity to proper levels, as well as the free available chlorine • Maintain a consistent 1.0 - 1.5 ppm free chlorine level Return to menu

	Algae or green murky water Algae. Green, cloudy water or dark green or black spots on pool walls. Algae is not only unsightly, but it makes surfaces slippery. Algae can clog pumps and filters, and may harbour bacteria. Causes: • Insufficient free-chlorine residual • Not following routine pool maintenance, including testing and sanitising. Remedies: • Super-chlorinate • Check pH and adjust, if necessary, to comfort zone: pH 7.2 - 7.8 • Brush spots with pool brush to remove clinging algae • Maintain a minimum chlorine residual of 1.0 to 1.5 PPM Return to menu

	Eye burns and chlorine-like odours. Causes: • Improper pH • Combined chlorine Remedies: • Super-chlorinate • Adjust pH to proper 7.2 - 7.8 range • Maintain proper levels of pH, total alkalinity, and free chlorine residual Return to menu

	Stains on pool surface Stains. Usually brownish stains on pool surface. Causes: • Corrosion of pool’s metal hardware due to low pH • High pH • High alkalinity • Dissolved metals Remedies: • Adjust pH to 7.2 - 7.8 • Adjust total alkalinity • Check with us about acid washing your pool Return to menu

	Clogged filter Clogged Filter. Water flow through your filter is impeded, resulting in increase in circulatory system pressure. Causes: • Algae • Calcification • Hair • Suntan lotion • Improper pH • Improper total alkalinity Remedies: • Check the guidelines for your pool, including proper pH and total alkalinity, adjust them to proper levels • Maintain proper levels for pH and total alkalinity Return to menu

	Foaming Foaming. When your pool water looks like soap bubbles. Causes: • Too high a concentration of algaecide •Organic debris in water Remedies: • Read product labels carefully, and obey dosage instructions • Discard water, as necessary • Super-chlorinate • Adjust pH, total alkalinity, and free chlorine residual to proper ranges • Maintain those proper levels Return to menu

	Scale deposits Scale. White, grey, or brownish deposits on pool surface or heater coils. Causes: • Calcium carbonate deposits caused by excessively hard water • Accumulation of dissolved solids Remedies: • Adjust pH to 7.2 - 7.8 • Adjust total alkalinity • Check with your us about acid washing your pool Return to menu

	Coloured water - newly filled pool Coloured Water (1). Water in a newly-filled pool turns blue, brown, or black when first treated chemically. Causes: • Chlorine turns unseen copper, iron, or manganese in the water into unwanted and highly-visible compounds • Water velocity in circulatory system too high Remedies: • Adjust pH to 7.8 • Run filter continuously and backwash as required • Vacuum settled material to waste • Check velocity of water to make sure copper is not leached out of lines Return to menu

	Coloured water - existing pool water Coloured Water (2). Water in already-filled pool turns various colours. Causes: • Leaves, other organic debris in water • Algae Remedies: • Clean pool of leaves or other debris • Super-chlorinate • Adjust the free chlorine residual, the pH and total alkalinity to proper levels • Maintain those levels Return to menu

	Total dissolved solids Total Dissolved Solids. (Measures of all dissolved materials). Erratic pool behaviour, scaling, staining, reduced chlorine efficiency. Cause: • Insufficient fresh water added to pool Remedies: • Discard "old" pool water • Adjust your pool guidelines to proper range • Maintain those proper levels Return to menu

	Pool Opening Procedure - Overview • A pool properly maintained during the winter months can be prepared for a new season of swimming with a minimum of effort. • Pump, hose, or sweep away water, dirt, or debris from the cover and deck. • Remove the cover and plugs from all openings. • If the water was in good shape at the end of last season, proper cover removal will ensure that your pool opens relatively clear. • If they were removed at the pool closing, raise the underwater lights from the bottom of the pool and install them in their niches. • Turn on the electric power and start up the support system. • Check for leaks and proper operation. • If you find any problems, consult your owner's manual or contact a local pool service company. • Have the heater professionally serviced before you use it. • Test and adjust the pH and total alkalinity. • Superchlorinate and adjust the pH & Alkalinity levels of the water. • Run the pump 24 hours a day at the beginning of the season when it may be difficult to get the pool water balanced. You can reduce the pump operating time in one-hour increments once you've got the water in shape. • Treat the water with an algaecide. • After several hours of operation test the chlorine level and adjust it as needed. If the chlorine level is high, do not use the pool until it drops to normal levels. Return to menu

	Opening the Pool - General The reopening process begins the moment the pool is closed. • By keeping an eye on the pool over the winter, the reopening process becomes that much easier. • Snow or rain can raise the water level or sink the cover. • Since heavy debris can fall in, it is better to remove it immediately than waiting till the spring. • Reopening the pool entails reversing the instructions for closing it. The following is a handy checklist: Supplies • Take the supplies/chemicals out of storage and replace those that have exceeded the expiration date. Uncover • Remove the cover, and then clean it. • Allow it to dry (to prevent mildew) before folding and storing it for the summer. Equipment • Reinstall or reassemble the pump, filter, and other removed items. Deck • Reinstall ladders, diving board, and other deck fittings. • If used at closing time, most of the petroleum jelly used to coat exposed metal fittings will have weathered off. Use a dry terry cloth towel to wipe off the remainder if necessary. Plumbing • Remove the plugs and replace return outlet fittings. Refilling the Pool • Bring the water level up to normal. Electrical • Restore circuit breakers, switches, and time clock trippers to normal operating positions. Cleaning • Restart the circulation equipment and clean the pool. Chemistry • Balance the water chemistry and check the levels frequently during the first few days until they stabilise. • Run the circulation system 24 hours straight for three days or until the water has cleared completely. • Depending on how dirty the pool became over the winter, the filter must be backwashed frequently during this period. Return to menu

	Opening the Pool - Detailed • Remove the leaves and debris from the pool cover with a leaf net and/or skimmer net. - Pump off any excess rain water with a submersible pump. - If an above ground pool, the excess water may be siphoned off instead. • Remove cover & try to minimise the amount of water and/or debris that gets into the pool water. - Some dirty water will always manage to get in but don't worry about it as you will be adding shock to the water and filtering it soon, so a little dirty water will not hurt anyone! • Lay out pool cover and sweep or brush off any remaining debris. - If you do not store your cover indoors and you keep it outside or in a shed, then you do not have to worry about getting the cover particularly spotlessly clean. - If you do keep it in the garage or basement, you may want to clean it to a greater extent. Properly fan-fold cover and store away. • Empty the water out of any water tubes you may have. - On above ground pools, deflate the air pillow. - Clean off items and fold properly and store away. • Unplug all piping, both in the pool and at the filter system area. • Reattach any deck equipment you have such as ladders, rails, diving boards, etc. - Make sure to reconnect any grounding wires or straps that may have been attached to the metal parts last year. • Lubricate all bolts on the dive board, ladders and/or rails. - This will prevent them from rusting over the summer. - Remember, you are probably the one who will be closing the pool, so you want the bolts to come off easy at closing time. • Reinstall the skimmer baskets and any return jet eyeball fittings. - If an above ground pool, you may have to reattach the actual skimmer and return fittings onto the pool (depending on how the pool was closed). - If an above ground pool, also hookup any hoses from the skimmer and return jets to the pump and filter. • Hook up pump, filter and any other additional equipment you might have (booster pumps, spa equipment, waterfall circulation pumps, heaters, etc.) • Turn on the power to the pool system. - You may have to turn on the circuit breaker from the house. - Start and check system, checking for leaks or drips. - Make sure any grounding straps or wires are properly connected to the pump and any other components that need them. - Make sure pump primes properly. - Check for proper flow. - Backwash the filter thoroughly. - Add new DE if you have a DE filter. - If some pieces of equipment do not appear to be operating properly, you might want to first check your pool systems manual but if you cannot repair the problem yourself, contact a local pool professional for assistance. • Shock the pool with any chlorine shock product. - This is available in liquid or granular form. - You want to add enough to raise the chlorine level of the pool to at least 3.0 ppm (darker yellow colour in most liquid test kits). - If you use granular shock, do not throw it directly into the pool, you could bleach and stain the liner. - It is best to mix the granular shock chlorine in a bucket and then add that mixture into the skimmer while the system is running. • If your pool is a "green swamp" when you open it, contact us for further information on how to clear it properly. • If your pool water is relatively clear, accurately test your water for chlorine, pH and Alkalinity levels. - If available, also test for Stabiliser (cyanuric acid). - Adjust these chemicals to the proper levels. - Add a high quality algaecide to the water. • Let pool run for at least 24 hours. • Vacuum any debris out of the bottom. • Retest water. • Do not go into pool until water is crystal clear and chlorine level is under 2.0 PPM Return to menu

	We Have a Problem! Sometimes things don't go so smoothly after you open your pool. Here are some common problems and what actions you should take: • Obvious drips coming from filter tank, pump or visible pipes. - Try tightening the fittings. - If you cannot get leaks to stop, contact a local pool professional. • Sand in pool under or near the return jets. - This may mean the pool has an underground pipe leak or, if you have a sand filter it could mean that something in the sand filter is cracked. - If you are loosing water as well, we suggest contacting a local pool professional. - If you are not losing water, then take apart the sand filter and look for a cracked part. • DE in pool under or near the return jets. - This means that there is something in the DE filter that is ripped or cracked. - Take the filter apart and look for cracked part or ripped element. • DE filter isn't putting out enough water pressure and/or isn't effectively filtering the pool. - You should backwash the filter immediately. - Add new DE. - If problem persists, filter may be in need of an "acid wash". - If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional. • Sand filter isn't putting out enough water pressure and/or isn't effectively filtering the pool. - You should backwash the filter immediately. - If problem persists, filter may be in need of a sand change. - If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional. • You notice many air bubbles mixing with the water coming out of the return jets. - Probably means that there is a suction line leak, usually under or by the skimmers. - You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this! • You notice settled or wet dirt/You see bricks or patio blocks around the skimmers or return jets settling or sinking into the ground. - Probably means an underground pipe leak at that point. - You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this! • Pump makes a loud squealing noise, it heats up or is not running to its full capability. - This indicates that the pump is in need of professional service. - Either remove it and bring it to a pool store or pump shop for repair, or replace the pump. • You notice that your pool is losing water... - If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the skimmer and stops, this usually means that it is a suction line leak, most likely directly under the skimmer. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this! - If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the return jets and then stops, this usually means that it is a return line leak, most likely directly by the wall jet return fitting, but it could be anywhere in the return line. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this! - If the pool water level goes down to the top, middle or bottom of the light unit, this usually means that the light is leaking. This is usually the fitting in the light niche where the metal or plastic conduit pipe is attached to the metal niche. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this! - If the water level goes down to any other level on the side walls and then stops, this usually means that the leak is in the liner on the pool side wall or possibly in the step unit gasket. Inspect the pool visually around the water level and check to see if you can see a hole. Check the area where the ladder comes in contact with the liner. This is a very common leak point. If you cannot clearly see a leak hole, we suggest contacting a local pool professional to locate & repair the leak. - If the water level goes down past the side walls, then it usually means that the leak is in the pool floor. You do not want all the water to drain out of the pool as it is bad for the liner and very bad for the pool walls - you do not want the pool to fall in! If you see that you are quickly losing all the water in your pool, put a hose in the pool, start to refill it and contact a local pool professional to locate & patch the hole. Return to menu

	Frequently asked questions about pool closings What kind of chemicals do you put in the pool? • We suggest a the use of a concentrated shock treatment along with a winter algaecide and stain treatment product. • Also make sure you adjust the pH and Alkalinity of the water. Do you put any Antifreeze in the pipes? • No, you should not have to. • The only way that you can guarantee that your underground pipes don’t freeze is to blow all the water out of the pipes with a high powered air compressor or shop vac. • The only time you would need to add Antifreeze is if you were going to leave water in the pipes. Then you would have to add it to keep them from freezing, but this is not recommended. Do you drop the light, lower the light, remove the light? • No, you do not have to lower the light. • A long time ago, before people used compressors or shop vacs to blow all the water out of the pipes, they had to lower the water in the pool down past the returns. Then they used to have to remove the light and drop it to the bottom of the pool because if the pool water froze, it might expand and actually crack the light. • Now a days, since you can use the compressor to blow out the pipes, you can keep the water level in the pool high up so your light can stay where it is. • There is much less of a chance that the light will develop a leak if you just leave it alone. Why do you have to lower the water in the pool if the pool has tile around the top at the water level? • If you have tiles and you do not lower the water level, then if the water freezes it can expand outwards and actually crack the tile. Do you have to lower the water in a vinyl liner Inground pool? • No, the only time that a pool needs to have the water lowered is if you have a gunite or cement pool with tile around the top, at the water line. • If you have tiles and you do not lower the water level, then if the water freezes it can expand outwards and actually crack the tile. That’s the only reason. • If you have a liner in the pool then there is no need to lower the water level. When you use high powered compressors to blow all the water out of the pipes and plug the return jets and the skimmers there is no need to lower the water. • The higher you can keep the water in the pool, the better it is for your pool cover and there will be much less of a chance of the cover falling in. Should I acid wash my DE filter before closing? • You should backwash it out before you close it down, that gets all the gunk and old DE out of the filter. • If you want to have the filter 'acid washed', that’s usually something you do at the pool opening. • You don’t want to have the filter cleaned and then have it sit for the next six months with acid residue in it. Most people want to have it cleaned out right before they start up the pool in the spring. It is best to wait till then. Should I vacuum the pool before I close it? • We do not recommend closing the pool if there is a lot of debris in it, then you should vacuum it all out. • Most people vacuum the pool right after they open it in the Spring and only have to do it once. Return to menu

	How to close an Inground Pool Locate all your winterising supplies. This should include: • the cover • the water tubes • the plugs for the skimmers and return jets • your winterising chemicals. • You will also need an air compressor or a powerful shop vac. Backwash the filter very well to clean it out. • Drain DE filter tanks and leave backwash valve open. • On sand filters, unplug the filter drain plug and leave off. • Put drain plug with other removed items in the pump basket. • Make sure multiport valve has no water in it. • Blow it out with a compressor or shop vac if necessary. • Please note that it is not recommended to "acid wash" DE filters at the time of the pool closing. This is best to do in the Spring so that you can immediately run pool water through the system. It is not good to use muriatic acid on a DE filter and then just rinse it off and put it away. The acid may degrade the filter parts over the winter. Disconnect your pump and filter. • Make sure that pump is totally drained out of any water. • Turn pump upside down once to make sure! • Remove any drain plugs from the pump. • It is a good idea to store any small plugs or parts in the pump basket. This way you will be able to find them easily in the Spring. If there is a heater, drain it and make sure there is no sitting water inside. • Blow it out with a compressor or shop vac. • Drain heater totally and remove all drain plugs (if any). • Put drain plugs in the pump basket for safe keeping. • We do not recommend to remove the heater tray. You can remove it if you want, but you may have trouble putting it back in the Spring. It is not necessary on most units. Unscrew and loosen any quick disconnect fittings or unions at your pump and filter system. Remember, the name of the game is "no freeze cracks". If the water is all drained out of your pipes and fittings, it cannot freeze and expand and crack. Remove all return jet fittings (the entire fitting!). • If you crack a fitting while removing it, don’t panic!! You can get a replacement come Spring. • Remove all skimmer baskets. Put fittings and any other items that you remove in one of the skimmer baskets or the pump basket to avoid loss. Blow out all return jet pipes using an air compressor or shop vac. • Hook up air compressor or shop vac to the return lines at the filter system, or some people prefer to screw the compressor fitting into the drain plug of the pump. This will give a good seal and allow you to blow out the entire system from that one spot but this is up to you. • Keep the air blowing until the air bubbles start to become visible from the return jets in the pool. • Put a plug in the fitting under the water when you see the bubbles blowing at full force. This will mean that 99% of the water is out of the pipe. • Make sure plug is in tight! This is most important. Blow out all skimmer (suction side) pipes in a similar fashion as noted in #7. • Put a plug in the skimmer when bubbles start to become visible. • Make sure that you put Teflon tape on the plug threads before installing. This insures a tight seal. • Make sure there is something in the skimmer to allow for water expansion when it freezes. Usually a closed empty plastic bottle will work. This is very important! Do not just plug the skimmer lines and forget about them. Water can easily freeze in a skimmer and crack the plastic. • Also, if you have a slide, an auto vac system or a waterfall, you will have to drain and blow out those pipes as well. Blow out main drain line (if any). • When you see bubbles coming out of the drain, plug the pipe on your end or close the gate valve. • This is as much protection as you can give to a main drain line. By doing this you will cause an "air lock" in the line and no more water should enter the pipe from the pool side. Put duct tape on all exposed pipes to prevent anything from getting into them. Remove rope and floats from pool and put with the rest of the supplies. Remove dive board and ladders. Put in a safe spot - a shed or the garage. Put the pump and filter in the shed or garage as well. You probably are not going to want to move your filter if it is a sand filter. Do not lose dive bolts or ladder bumpers, put them in the skimmer or pump baskets. Mix any granular winterising chemicals in a bucket so that they are totally dissolved. • Dump mixture into the pool. • You want to avoid any undissolved granules from settling on the pool floor and staining the liner. • If you are using any liquid winterising chemicals, pour them in the pool as well. • Test the pool for pH and Total Alkalinity. Adjust to normal levels using pH Plus or Minus and Alkalinity Plus. • pH should be between 7.2 - 7.6 and Alkalinity between 100-150 ppm. • Make sure one of your winteriser chemicals consists of a Shock-type product. You want the chlorine level in the pool to be rather high (over 3.0 for wintertime). Water level - you do not have to drain any water out of the pool provided that you have properly blown out and plugged all your underground pipes as outlined above and you do not have a pool that has decorative ceramic tiles at the water line. • Some people are used to their pool being drained down past the skimmer. This is usually done instead of blowing out the pipes and using plugs. • Realise that the higher their water level is through the winter, the better it is for the pool cover. Pools that are drained down low cause a lot of undue stress on the pool cover thereby shortening its life - as well as exposing the pool liner to the air and causing it to prematurely dry out. • The use of plugs prevents the skimmers from cracking, plugs the pipes and allows the water level to remain high for the cover so that rain water does not cause a lake on top of the pool cover, possibly causing it to fall in. • You really only have to drain the water down in a pool if it has tile at the water level because the surface water will freeze and expand over the winter and this could cause those tiles to crack. Place the cover on the pool. • If there are rips or tears in the cover that are repairable, patch them with either vinyl pool patch (for vinyl covers) or with pool cover patch tape (for lightweight covers) or with a heavy duty duct-type tape. • If there are sharp points that extend into the pool, like step units or "ELS", then it is a good idea to put rags or cardboard between the cover and the points on the pool which extend out. Do this right or the cover may rip on those stress points. Return to menu

	How to close an Above Ground Pool Locate all your winterising supplies. This should include : • the cover • the air pillow • the plugs for the skimmers • the winter plate • your winterising chemicals. Backwash the filter very well to clean it out. • Drain DE filter tanks and leave backwash valve open. • On sand filters, unplug the filter drain plug and leave off. Put drain plug with other removed items in the pump basket. • Make sure multiport valve (if any) has no water in it. Blow it out with a compressor or shop vac if necessary. • Please note that it is not recommended to "acid wash" DE filters at the time of the pool closing. This is best to do in the Spring so that you can immediately run pool water through the system. It is not good to use muriatic acid on a DE filter and then just rinse it off and put it away. The acid may degrade the filter parts over the winter. Plug return pipes and skimmer and remove all hoses. Disconnect your pump and filter. • Make sure that pump is totally drained out of any water. • Turn pump upside down once to make sure. • Remove any drain plugs from the pump. It is a good idea to store any small plugs or parts in the pump basket. This way you will be able to find them easily in the Spring. • Store in a shed or garage. Some people like to remove the skimmer box and install a winter plate with gaskets. • If you do this, make sure it does not leak & yes, you will get wet doing this! • Most people simply plug the skimmer hole with a black rubber plug as it is easier. • You can let the water in the pool go down to the bottom of the skimmer if you like, then you do not have to plug the hole at all. This method is also OK, but realise that the pool cover will sit lower in the pool, therefore you might want to use a cover that is one or two sizes bigger than your pool so that you have the extra material available. Blow up and install your air pillow. • Air pillows are usually used but are not absolutely necessary. • They are a good idea in case the water in the pool freezes, expands, and breaks the pool wall. The pillow takes up the slack, however realise that this is somewhat rare. • If no pillow is available, you can use tires, tubes, balls, or other air filled floating objects. • Throw them into the pool to take up ice expansion. • Tie air pillow at two places and position in centre of pool & tie strings to the pool wall so the pillow does not move during cover installation. • Pillows are NOT to keep the rain water out of the pool cover, they will not do that as the rain water will always settle around the outside of the pillow. Remove all deck equipment from pool, ladders, rails, slides, etc. Add chemicals. • Mix any granular winterising chemicals in a bucket so that they are totally dissolved. • Dump mixture into the pool. • You want to avoid any undissolved granules from settling on the pool floor and staining the liner. This is very important. • If you are using any liquid winterising chemicals, pour them in the pool as well. • Test the pool for pH and Total Alkalinity. Adjust to normal levels using pH Plus or Mimus and Alkalinity Plus. • pH should be between 7.2 - 7.6 and Alkalinity between 100-150 PPM • Make sure one of your winteriser chemicals consists of a Shock-type product. You want the chlorine level in the pool to be rather high (over 3.0 for wintertime). Place cover on pool and secure. • Make sure that cover cable wire is tight so that cover does not blow off or fall in pool. • Make sure the pillow is still in the middle of the pool after cover installation. If not, reset cover and pillow. Return to menu

	Pool Safety Do's and Dont's DO: Read the safety instructions on each chemical pack Store all chemicals safely in a cool and dark place in the original and sealed containers, out of reach of children Wear protective clothing when handling chemicals Add chemicals to the water, not vice versa and follow pack instructions to the letter Dispose of any spillages as directed on the label - but don't use a vacuum cleaner Take urgent action if chemicals come in contact with skin. Flush liberally with clean, fresh water for at least 15 minutes. If irritation occurs or chemicals are swallowed or come into contact with eyes, call a doctor immediately Keep chemicals away from lawns, shrubs or trees Teach water safety to all swimmers, especially children Supervise all swimming in the pool and learn to swim and life-save Tell guests the pool depth (or have it clearly marked) before they dive Keep safety aids around the pool Take care with pets, especially when using a pool cover Fence in or fit a lockable gate to outdoor pools. Where this is not possible, use a firmly anchored, suspended pool cover Remove steps from above ground pools after swimming Arrange insurance cover for the pool and its use DON'T: Mix chicals. Always follow pack instructions Let chemicals become contaminated with rubbish such as wood shavings, paper or cotton. The strong oxidising power of Chlorine donors in particular makes this hazardous Use glass objects around the pool Inhale or splash chemical liquids & avoid handling tablets or granules with wet hands Smoke near pool chemicals Swim immediately after a meal or when feeling tired or unwell Discharge pool water containing chemicals into water courses, septic tanks or streams, but only into a foul sewer. Where this is not possible, consult your water supply company Return to menu

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